Đậu hủ nóng (dow hoo nom) is a throwback beach town dessert, specifically enjoyed after a morning soak in the ocean. Today, morning walkers and jazzercisers add to the exclusive clientele list.
Find a bowl accompanied by a glass of hot or iced soy bean milk on the corner of Lê Lợi and the park next door.
Rivaling the salmon in size, just as fatty and tasty but at a fraction of the cost, the leatherjacket is seasoned with onions, oil and spices and grilled whole in aluminum foil. The Vietnamese twist involves rolling pieces of the fish along with lettuce and cucumber slices in rice paper, then dipping in a lemon chili sauce. Chúc ngon miệng! (bon apetite!)
5 Bãi Dương (bi yoong) serves up Cá Bò Da Nướng Giấy Bạc "ka baw ya noong yay back" in the late hours.
A thin strip of beef, a fried egg, a meatball, onions, and special sauce are fired up on a cast iron plate and brought to your table still sizzling. The "né" in bò né (baw neigh) means to stand back (from the spitting sizzle).
In the mornings, try your luck at Đức Phát (duck fat) restaurant on 55 Le Thanh Phuong. And after dusk, at Bo Ne 32 on 32 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai
A near replica of the famous chinese dish, the Vietnamese version of mì hoàn thánh (me won ton) gets its unique flavor from pork broth rather than chicken, with the same pork and mushroom filled dumplings, hand pulled egg noodles, fried shallots, and a touch of dark sesame oil.
In Nha Trang, you can find a bowl of this soup at Đúc Phát (duck fat) restaurant on 55 Lê Thành Phương (leh tan foong) from 6:30-11:30am.
A Hanoian original, seasoned, minced pork and mushrooms filled inside thin sheets of rice which are then rolled and topped with grilled pork, cured pork ham (chả lụa / cha loowa), egg rolls, bean sprouts and fried shallots is what you call bánh cuốn (ban coon).
So you want to try bánh cuốn? Go to the corner of Ngô Gia Tự (ngoe ya tow) and Bặch Đằng (bock dong) from 6am-9am. Moka Cafe on 74 Hung Vuong also has Banh Cuon from 7:30-9am.
Colored with tumeric and filled with shrimp, squid, onions, and bean sprouts, this flat seafood pancake is crispy and savory. An absolute must try, one pan-sized cake is enough to satisfy.
Bánh xèo chảo is fried to order on the corner of Tô Hiến Thành (tow heen tan) and Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai (ween tea min kai).
A Hanoian original, bún chả (boon cha like in chad) combines grilled to order pork patties and sliced pork loin with airy rice noodles in a nước mắm (nook mom) based sauce, enhanced with leafy and stringy veggies.
How To Eat:
Method 1: Place veggies of your choice into the meat filled bowl of sauce. With chopsticks, dip some noodles into the sauce. Bring the noodles up to your mouth with veggies and meat.
Method 2: Place noodles, veggies, and a piece of meat into an empty bowl. Spoon some sauce into the bowl and chow down.
The best Bun Cha in town is at Quang Sanh (wang san) on 7 Hàn Thuyên (han tween) near Dam Market / Chợ Đầm (chuh dom).
Nước mắm / nook mom (fish sauce) with chilli flakes and pickled veggies top a bed of tender noodles, lettuce, grilled pork, and peanut sauce.
Đặng Vân Quyên is located on 2 Phan Bội Châu. That is "dang von ween" on fan boy chow. Pho 24 also now has their own version of the dish.
Chunks of beef are stewed till tender. The soup is added to a broth of Pho / fuh with those famous white noodles. And you thought Pho only came with rare beef or chicken.
Banh Canh / Bun Ca can be enjoyed at Nguyen Loan on 123 Ngo Gia Tu
Freshly cut fruit combined with sweetened condensed milk, ice and water sounds so simple yet trumps all over Jamba Juice and the like in taste. Not to mention it is under $1 per glass. Order up a glass of Táo / apple), ca-rốt / carrot, dâu xây / strawberries blended (yao say) or even chuối - yauort / banana yogurt (chewy ya oowah).
My favorite Sinh To (sin toll) is at Sinh To Quy on 50 Bach Dang. For late night cravings, go to the Catholic church and look across the street.
Fried shallots, mayo, pickled veggies, and a sweetened, gingery, chilli fish sauce is topped on traditional southern Com Ga / "come ga" while the northern Hai Nam style involves more ginger in the sauce, plus chicken fat and garlic are used in place of tumeric for aroma and more natural color.
Ha Com Ga is located on 75 Ngo Gia Tu. For Hai Nam style, 44 Nguyen Binh Khiem is where the famous Lac Canh Restaurant is located, but you will have to call ahead to pre order the very dish that my grandfather perfected there under French occupation.
Pictured is actually Com Chien Dui Ga, or Fried Rice and Chicken Drumstick, offered at Salina Restaurant on Tran Phu next to The Light hotel
Squid is cooked upon thick, crispy bottomed rice cakes over an insanely hot and aromatic cast iron and clay wood charcoal cooker. Egg (chicken or pigeon) and beef are other common toppings.
The crispiest banh can ("bahn cahng") is a small spot on 2 thang 4 street across from Medic Hospital.
Pan-fried with whole garlic cloves til crispy, this seaside style plate of river-raised shrimp has the crunch and savoriness without any breading.
The absolute best Tom Dat Chay Toi ("toem duck chay toi") is at Duc Phat Restaurant on 55 Le Thanh Phuong and Lang Nuong (BBQ Garden) Duc Phat on 23 thang 10 near Metro Wholesale Center.
The signature dish of Vietnamese cuisine, fresh fish is poached in a sour, spicy and subtly sweet tamarind broth appropriate for all seasons.
Traditional Lau Canh Chua Ca cooked over wood charcoal can be had at Nha Trang Xua (suha).
Oyster and soy sauces, plus onions and garlic are shaken (that is what luc lac / "look lack" means) with tender cubed filet mignon on a flaming hot wok.
This exclusive dish is served piping hot with vegetables and rice at Louisiane Brewhouse on 29 Tran Phu. For the more intense, buttery local flavor, head to Bo Luc Lac Hong Ngoc (Homg Ngawp) at C4 Phan Boi Chau near Cho Dam / Dam Market.
Pronounced "ban ook", these sheets of rice served hot from a crepe making-like griddle are rolled with cured Vietnamese pork slices and dried shrimp powder, then dipped in a watered down, hot fish sauce / nước mắm (nook muhm).
It takes a journey into the east end of Nha Trang to find this local specialty. Direct your driver to Ha Banh Uot on 23 thang 10 street near Cây Số 5 ("kay so nuhm" which translates to "5km east of town").
Mushrooms, cabbage, tofu and local greens simmered in a sour, sweet and mildly spicy soup is what Lau Chay (low chaye) is all about.
Long Son pagoda on 23 thang 10 street serves this hotpot for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Minced crabmeat in a giant meatball, tomatoes and shrimp sauce power this southern spectacular that bursts with flavor in every spoonful.
The best Bun Rieu (boon reel) in town is at Salina restaurant on 86c Tran Phu, next to The Light hotel
Aromas of anise, cinnamon, and roasted onions coupled with tender white noodles and generous amounts of beef, tripe, or chicken are what makes this signature Vietnamese dish a mainstream success.
Pho can be tasted at Pho 24 on 24 Tran Phu street in Nha Trang, next to Nha Trang Lodge hotel. Another quality location is Pho Bach Dang on 123 Bach Dang street near Som Moi market
